Case for ZRIB card

A simple case to give a professional look to your printer! 


1x case cover  link
1x case bottom link
1x raft link
Many x Cable ties
4x screw


Disclaimers: be always extra careful when you manipulate the board and the wire. It’s a good idea to plug the ZRIB board without using the case and test the printer’s electronic. You need +- 1 hours for this tutorial, and a lot of patience. is not responsible for the actions of the reader after reading this tutorial.

Step 1: Place all wire through the holes of the acrylic board


Step 2: Place the bottom case as shown on the picture. The wires ( from the left Z-motor, power supply, y-motor and y limit switch) should come out IN the case.


Step 3: Mark all the wire so you know where to plug them later


Step 4: Use the cable ties to fix all the cable on the “raft”. Note where the cable should comes out in order to connect them on the ZRIB board.



Step 5: Fix the “raft” on the bottom case and make sure the plug and cables comes out on the right side in order to be connected to the ZRIB board.


Step 6: Add the ZRIB board and connect all the wires.


Step 7: Add the case cover and you are done



Pimp my Prusa i3 – A 8$ trick to get a higher print quality with your Afinibot prusa


Tutorial : Pimp my Prusa i3 – A 8$ trick to get a higher print quality with your Afinibot prusa

By : 

This simple and inexpensive tutorial will allow you to stabilise your Prusa i3 on a board using these hooks. Less vibration = better quality of prints and also with such stable base you will need to do the bed calibration less often.

pimpmp 001

The material:

pimpmp 007

– 6 hooks
(you can print them using this .STL file: here ) – free
Alternative download link:
– 1 anti-slip shelf liner (at least 16″ large)
(available in a hardware store or at a one-dollar shop such as Dollarama) – 3$
– 1 plywood  or melanine panel size: 18″x16″ thickness 5/8″
(available in a hardware store, ask for cuttings or scrap panel) – 4$
– 8 screws (ex 3/4″ size 8)
(available in a hardware store or in your drawer’s bottom 🙂 ) – 1$

Tools needed:
-Saw (optional, only if you need to cut the melanine panel)

Step 1:

Cut the anti-slip shelf liner at the same size than you melanine board 16″x18″.

pimpmp 006

pimpmp 002

Step 2:

Place your prusa i3 (this is not the Afinibot model shown) on the panel. Make sure the printer sits on the shelf liner everywhere.

pimpmp 003

Step 3:

Place the hooks on the threatened rod as show in the 2 pictures:

pimpmp 004 pimpmp 005

Step 4:

Screw the hooks on the board.

pimpmp 008

Step:  5:

Redo the calibration and enjoy 🙂

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One Newbie’s experiences with the Afinibot Prusa Kit

One Newbie’s experiences with the Afinibot Prusa Kit

I bought this kit a couple of weeks ago and now have it up and running. I took my time building it and there is some lots of tweeking to do. However, so far all is well and I am enjoying learning about 3D printing. Here are some of the things I have learned so far.

Jean-Maurice of electronic geek is a very helpful guy who had responded very quickly to all my dumb questions! The manufacturer in China also responded promptly to a question about registering my kit.

The kit was complete. However the printed instructions were almost impossible to read and they were incomplete in that they did not show the fan that had to be added to the extruder head. The instructions in the PDF file on SD card were much clearer.

The parts fitted together nicely. The only exceptions were the holes for the z axis rods – these were a tad too small and I had to use a drill bit to expand them.

I only made one silly mistake in that I failed to take note of the fact that the main vertical part of the frame has a slot for the z axis limit switch on the left side and I initially built this the wrong way round!

When doing the wiring it is good to have a wire stripper especially for the thin motor wires.

Although you might be tempted to affix the control board to the left upright support before doing the wiring this is not a good idea because it is almost impossible to get the wires into their respective slots when you can’t see what you are doing! You might also be tempted to tin the ends of the wires but this can make them too think for the slots on the control board.

When cutting wires be sure the leave enough loose wire to permit the free travel of the bed and the extruder. In addition to using the wire enclosure cable and the various clips included in the kit, some electrical tape will come in handy.

Once the build is complete you need adjust the table height, configure the extruder and perhaps adjust the x, y, and z axis movements. There are lots of good websites that show how these things are done. You will need to connect to the Repetier Host software and configure the printer as per the instructions. Use the auto settings to find the port. The baud rate that works for me is 115200 and I set the buffer size to 127.

The table adjustment was the most challenging and I finally figured out how best to do it:

  1. loosen the 4 table screws to allow maximum compression of the table bed plate when the screws are tightened..
  2. Lower the z axis limit switch as far as possible.
  3. Using the manual control in Repetier Host lower the extruder until it just touches the


  4. Raise the limit switch until it clicks as it touches the horizontal bar of the z axis
  1. Tighten the table screws until you can just slip a piece of paper under the extruder nozzle at each of the four corners of the table.
  2. If the first layer does not stick to the table them the table is too high.

I used Dupont’s Teflon non-stick anti adhesive from Canadian Tire to lubricate the rods and have found it necessary to use a lot of hairspray to get to extruded filament to stick to the heater bed. I also raised the bed temperature to about 70 degrees and this helped with the adhesion.

I’m very pleased with my prints so far and I’m sure they will get better as I follow the many excellent tips that can be found on numerous 3D printer websites and YouTube videos.

Happy printing everyone.

Afinibot notes