A simple case to give a professional look to your printer!
1x case cover link
1x case bottom link
1x raft link
Many x Cable ties
Disclaimers: be always extra careful when you manipulate the board and the wire. It’s a good idea to plug the ZRIB board without using the case and test the printer’s electronic. You need +- 1 hours for this tutorial, and a lot of patience. Electronicgeek.ca is not responsible for the actions of the reader after reading this tutorial.
Step 1: Place all wire through the holes of the acrylic board
Step 2: Place the bottom case as shown on the picture. The wires ( from the left Z-motor, power supply, y-motor and y limit switch) should come out IN the case.
Step 3: Mark all the wire so you know where to plug them later
Step 4: Use the cable ties to fix all the cable on the “raft”. Note where the cable should comes out in order to connect them on the ZRIB board.
Step 5: Fix the “raft” on the bottom case and make sure the plug and cables comes out on the right side in order to be connected to the ZRIB board.
Step 6: Add the ZRIB board and connect all the wires.
Step 7: Add the case cover and you are done
While building the printer, it’s always nice to have some pictures of the finished built as reference. Thanks to the great contribution of Rafael Moreno !
Tutorial : Pimp my Prusa i3 – A 8$ trick to get a higher print quality with your Afinibot prusa
By : ElectronicGeek.ca
This simple and inexpensive tutorial will allow you to stabilise your Prusa i3 on a board using these hooks. Less vibration = better quality of prints and also with such stable base you will need to do the bed calibration less often.
– 6 hooks
(you can print them using this .STL file: here ) – free
Alternative download link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:919399/#files
– 1 anti-slip shelf liner (at least 16″ large)
(available in a hardware store or at a one-dollar shop such as Dollarama) – 3$
– 1 plywood or melanine panel size: 18″x16″ thickness 5/8″
(available in a hardware store, ask for cuttings or scrap panel) – 4$
– 8 screws (ex 3/4″ size 8)
(available in a hardware store or in your drawer’s bottom 🙂 ) – 1$
-Saw (optional, only if you need to cut the melanine panel)
Cut the anti-slip shelf liner at the same size than you melanine board 16″x18″.
Place your prusa i3 (this is not the Afinibot model shown) on the panel. Make sure the printer sits on the shelf liner everywhere.
Place the hooks on the threatened rod as show in the 2 pictures:
Screw the hooks on the board.
Redo the calibration and enjoy 🙂
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Right side view:
Top view of the rear of the printer. The cable can be tightened to the rod with a tie-rap
The side panel on top of the melzi board. NOTE: The newest model from Afinibot has just 1 ribbon cable (not 2 as sown on the picture)
The assembly of the X-Axis might be hard. The holes for the rod on the X-Axis carriage are really tights to prevent the rod from moving. Here is a procedure to mount the rod on the X – Axis:
Assembly of the X-Axis